Contractor's Year-Round Tax Guide Revised

Contractor's Year-Round Tax Guide Revised

Easy Scheduling

Easy Scheduling

Craftsman's Construction Installation Encyclopedia Book with CD

Step-by-step installation advice for just about any residential construction, remodeling, or repair task you're likely to face. Written in clear, everyday English with illustrations and diagrams that show how to build or install each part of the job. There's even a manhour table for each item covered so you'll know how long they should take. Includes a CD-ROM in PDF format with all the material in the book.

Availability: In stock

Step-by-step installation advice for just about any residential construction, remodeling, or repair task you're likely to face. Written in clear, everyday English with illustrations and diagrams that show how to build or install each part of the job. There's even a manhour table for each item covered so you'll know how long they should take.

Includes a CD-ROM in PDF format with all the material in the book, search features, and the ability to printout or e-mail instructions. Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader 5.0 or above.

More Information
Page Count792
AuthorStephen and Janelle Diller
PublisherCraftsman Book Company
Dimensions8-1/2 x 11

Acoustical Tile, 9
   Acoustical materials, 9
   Acoustical characteristics, 11
   Installing acoustical ceiling tiles, 12
   Installing a suspended ceiling, 15
   Manhours, 19
   Acoustics, 21
   Acoustical ratings, 21
   Adhesives, 25
   Classes of adhesives, 25
   Types and purposes of adhesives, 26
   Choosing the right adhesive, 27
   Air Conditioning
   See Heating and Air Conditioning, 379

Asbestos, 31
   Asbestos abatement, 32

Asphalt Paving, 35
   Asphalt pavement, 35
   Designing asphalt pavement, 38
   Asphalt repair, 40
   Manhours, 42

Bathroom Fixtures, 43
   Showers and tubs, 43
   Sinks and lavatories, 45
   Water closets, 47
   Manhours, 48
   See also Plumbing,, 471

Brick Masonry, 51
   Making brick, 51
   Types of brick, 54
   Building with brick, 56
   Brick mortar, 58
   Flashing, 65
   Laying brick, 67
   Mortarless brick, 72
   Cutting brick, 73
   Brick repair, 74
   Cleaning brick masonry, 76
   Painting brick, 86
   Manhours, 88

Cabinetry, 91
   Site-built cabinet components, 91
   Box cabinets, 93
   Standard cabinet measurements, 94
   Planning and ordering cabinets, 95
   Cabinet layout, 98
   Cabinet installation, 99
   Manhours, 104

Carpet, 107
   Types of carpet, 107
   Styles of carpet, 109
   Carpet values, 110
   Carpet padding, 112
   Carpet labels, 113
   Carpet installation, 113
   Installation methods, 114
   Carpet repair, 118
   Carpet cleaning and maintenance, 119
   Manhours, 124
   See also Flooring,, 359

Ceramic Tile, 125
   Mortars and mastics, 127
   Grout, 128
   Tile backerboard, 130
   Ceramic tile installation, 132
   Tile repair, 138
   Manhours, 140

   See Fireplaces and Chimneys,, 291

Concrete, 141
   The ingredients in concrete, 141
   The mix design, 144
   Curing concrete, 145
   Planning a foundation, 147
   Foundation design, 148
   Forming the foundation, 152
   Ordering the concrete, 160
   Site access for equipment, 163
   Placing the concrete, 165
   Flatwork, 167
   Concrete damage control, 173
   Protecting concrete pours, 174

Concrete (continued)
   Moisture protection for
   finished concrete, 178
   Cutting, coring and drilling concrete, 181
   Testing and inspecting concrete, 183
   Manhours, 186

Concrete Block, 189
   Size and grades of block, 189
   Estimating concrete block, 190
   Mortar for concrete block, 191
   Laying concrete block, 191
   Concrete block reinforcement, 194
   Cutting concrete block, 196
   Waterproofing concrete block, 196
   Cleaning masonry, 197
   Manhours, 198

Concrete Reinforcement, 201
   Steel bars, 201
   Welded wire fabric, 205
   Fiber mesh, 206
   Manhours, 207

Countertops, 209
   Countertop materials, 209
   Countertop design, 211
   Cutting plastic laminates, 214
   Adhesives, 215
   Installing a plastic laminate surface, 216
   Repairing plastic laminate, 220
   Manhours, 221
   See also Ceramic Tile,, 125

   See Porches and Decks,, 485

Doors, 223
   Door unit components, 223
   Door hardware, 227
   Installing prehung doors, 230
   Installing individual door components, 231
   Manhours, 238

Drywall, 241
   Fire rating, 243
   Sound insulation, 244
   Estimating drywall, 245
   Moving and storing drywall, 245
   Measuring, marking and cutting drywall, 246
   Drywall fasteners, 248
   Hanging drywall, 249
   Finishing joints and fasteners, 252
   Drywall surface finishes, 257
   Avoiding drywall problems, 261
   Common drywall repairs, 262
   Manhours, 267

Electrical Installation, 269
   Measuring electricity, 269
   Power plant generator to
   service entrance, 272
   Service entrance, 273
   Electrical branch circuits, 275
   Rough wiring, 278
   Installing the outlet receptacles
   and switches, 279
   Wiring the service panel, 283
   Low-voltage wiring, 285
   Lighting types, 286
   Manhours, 287

Exterior Trim
   See Trim,, 673

Financing, 289
   Money sources, 289
   Loan costs, 290

Fireplaces and Chimneys, 291
   Fireplace and chimney components, 291
   Fireplace kits, 295
   Manhours, 297

Floor Framing, 299
   Columns, 299
   Girders, 310
   Sill plates, 322
   Floor joists, 328
   Subflooring, 350
   Underlayment, 353
   Manhours, 355
   See also Framing Materials and Planning, 363

Flooring, 359
   Consider the subfloor, 359
   Installing suspended flooring, 360
   Covering existing flooring, 362
   Manhours, 362
   See also Carpet, 107; Ceramic Tile, 125;
   Resilient Flooring, 503;Wood Flooring, 759

   See Concrete, 141; Concrete Block, 189;
   Floor Framing, 299

Framing Materials and Planning, 363
   New framing materials, 363
   Grading and classification of
   framing materials, 364
   Engineered wood products, 367
   Framing estimating, 372
   See also Floor Framing, 299;
   Roof Framing, 513; Wall Framing, 709

Glass Block, 375
   Laying glass block, 375
   Manhours, 377

Heating and Air Conditioning, 379
   Selecting a system, 379
   Heating system types, 380
   Air conditioning with
   a central air system, 389
   Manhours, 391
   See also Insulation, 395;Ventilation, 701

Insulation, 395
   The movement of heat, 395
   Insulation ratings, 396
   Estimating insulation, 398
   Types of insulation, 399
   Installing insulation, 404
   Superinsulation, 417
   Manhours, 420
   See also Acoustics, 21; Heating and
   Air Conditioning, 379; Radon and
   Other Pollutants, 499;Ventilation, 701

Insurance, 423
   Workers’ compensation insurance, 423
   General liability insurance, 424
   Builder’s risk insurance, 424
   Umbrella policies, 424
   Property insurance, 424
   Vehicle insurance, 425

Kitchen Cabinets
   See Cabinetry, 91

   See Electrical Installation, 269

   See Brick Masonry, 51; Ceramic Tile, 125;
   Concrete Block, 189; Glass Block, 375;
   Stone Masonry, 655

   See Trim, 673

Painting, 427
   Coating systems, 427
   Equipment, 429
   Surface preparation, 432
   Mixing and thinning the paint, 441
   Applying the paint, 441
   Spray painting, 444
   Care and cleanup of equipment, 448
   Manhours, 451

Paneling, 459
   Paneling types, 459
   Manhours, 464

   See Asphalt Paving, 35; Concrete, 141

Plaster, 465
   New plaster application, 465
   Plaster repairs, 467
   Covering plaster with drywall, 468
   Manhours, 469

Plumbing, 471
   Water supply lines, 471
   Installing water supply lines, 474
   Drain, waste and vent systems, 476
   Outside plumbing, 478
   Septic systems, 481
   Manhours, 483

Porches and Decks, 485
   Building a deck, 485
   Railings, 494
   Building a porch, 495
   Manhours, 497

Radon and Other Pollutants, 499
   Eliminating common pollutants, 499
   Radon, 499

Resilient Flooring, 503
   Types of vinyl, 504
   The subfloor, 504
   Installing sheet flooring, 505
   Installing resilient floor tiles, 508
   Repairing resilient flooring, 510
   Manhours, 512
   See also Flooring, 359

Roof Framing, 513
   Roof system design and engineering, 514
   Rafter framing, 516
   Types of rafters, 519
   Rafter framing layout, 538
   Erecting the rafters, 541
   Framing the valley for an
   intersecting roof, 545
   Roof trusses, 549
   Finishing the roof, 554

Roof Framing (continued)
   Installing roof sheathing, 559
   Manhours, 560
   See also Framing Materials and Planning, 363

Roofing, 561
   Roofing systems, 561
   Estimating roofing materials, 563
   Roofing tools, 563
   Roofing safety, 564
   Asphalt roofing, 564
   Installation of roll roofing, 568
   Asphalt shingles, 578
   Wood shakes and shingles, 587
   Roofing systems summary table, 599
   Manhours, 609

Septic Systems
   See Plumbing, 471

Siding, 611
   Surface preparation, 611
   Wood shingles, 614
   Lap siding, 625
   Vertical siding, 633
   Vinyl siding, 637
   Using vinyl siding on
   historic restorations, 650
   Aluminum siding, 651
   Manhours, 654

   See Windows and Skylights, 747

Stone Masonry, 655
   Stone used in construction, 655
   Estimating stone quantities, 658
   Stone mortar, 658
   Laying stone, 658
   Building a stone wall, 659
   Cutting stone masonry, 661
   Cleaning stone masonry, 663
   Manhours, 664

Stucco, 665
   Materials and mixes, 665
   Applying stucco, 668
   Synthetic stucco, 669
   Manhours, 671

Suspended Ceilings
   See Acoustical Tile, 9

Trim, 673
   Interior trim, 673
   Moldings, 684
   Exterior trim, 685
   The soffit, 691
   Manhours, 700

Ventilation, 701
   Attics, 701
   Crawl spaces, 705
   Manhours, 708
   See also Heating and Air Conditioning, 379;
   Radon and Other Pollutants, 499

Wall Framing, 709
   Framing styles, 709
   Wall framing components, 711
   Wall framing procedure, 715

Wall Framing (continued)
   Corner posts and partition posts, 724
   Headers, 725
   Rake walls, 729
   Floating walls, 732
   Backing and blocking, 732
   Drilling and notching, 736
   Manhours, 736
   See also Framing Materials and Planning, 363

   See Brick Masonry, 51; Concrete Block, 189;
   Stone Masonry, 655

Wallpaper, 737
   Estimating wallcoverings, 737
   Preparing the wall, 739
   Hanging the paper, 740
   Manhours, 745

Windows and Skylights, 747
   Windows, 747
   Skylights and skywindows, 752
   Manhours, 758

Wood Flooring, 759
   Moisture problems, 759
   Types and grades of flooring, 762
   Installing wood flooring, 764
   Finishing and refinishing wood flooring, 771
   Repairing wood floors, 778
   Manhours, 783
   See also Flooring, 359

Wood Paneling
   See Paneling, 459

How to Use the Encyclopedia CD, 785

Acoustical Tile

Acoustical material is designed to meet a variety of standard federal ratings. Manufacturers generally rate the Sound Transmission Class (STC) and the Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC) of their products. (See Acoustics.) While increasing the thickness of the material will often increase the NRC or STC, the most important factors in these ratings are the surface finish and composition of the material. Acoustical products are also rated for their fire resistance, surface burning and light-reflection characteristics.

Acoustical Material

Acoustical material is made primarily from mineral, fiberglass, vinyl or wood. Presently, a new generation of acoustical material, called Orion, is being introduced to replace fiberglass. In the past, asbestos cement was common because it’s noncombustible and resistant to high moisture conditions. However, it’s rarely used anymore because of the concern for asbestos-related health problems. (See Asbestos.) Cellulose fiber, the oldest and cheapest acoustical material, is also seldom used anymore. It’s not fire rated, and it doesn’t hold up well when subjected to moisture.

Mineral Fiber
Mineral fiber is by far the most common acoustical material. It’s made from mineral wool — blast-furnace slag that’s been reheated and blown into wool or spun into filaments. The process produces a highly durable, fire-rated material. Then the surface is either fissured or perforated to absorb sound. Where appearance is important, the material has fissures (voids) in the surface. It’s perforated (with regular holes) more often in industrial settings where maximum performance is more important than appearance. As a general rule of thumb, the rougher the texture, the better the material will absorb sound. When you paint mineral fiber material, it’s extremely important to use a nonbridging paint. Otherwise, the paint may close the pores, destroying the material’s acoustical qualities.

Because there are so many kinds of mineral fiber acoustical materials, they fall within a wide NRC range, from the 0.40s to the 0.80s. The STC range generally falls between 35 and 49.

Glass fiber, or fiberglass, is made up of tiny glass rods less than 1/20 the diameter of a human hair. These rods are pressed together, creating tiny voids between the fibers. These voids absorb the sound. Glass fiber tends to fall into a high NRC range, but it has a low STC. Abacking such as foil can be used to improve the STC. A further disadvantage of glass fiber is that it doesn’t come in a fire-rated form, more because it can’t meet the weight standards (1 pound per square foot) than because the material is combustible. Fiberglass is more expensive than mineral fiber. Also, there’s growing concern that fiberglass may be a health hazard, so its use is decreasing.

Vinyl-covered gypsum is occasionally used in food processing areas or garages because it’s easy to clean. The smooth surface of the vinyl keeps it from absorbing sound, so the product has a low or unrated NRC. But the STC range is very good.

Wood Fiber
Wood fiber, or fiberboard, is a lightweight backing that comes in 4 × 8-foot sheets, 1/2 inch thick. Fiberboard is often used instead of gypsum board if acoustic performance is a consideration. Fiberboard with an acoustical coating has a good NRC rating. You can’t use it for ceilings in commercial applications, but you can use it for walls.

Orion is a unique acoustical material. The material, an oatmeal-like substance, is dumped into 8-foot wide pans and shaken and shifted until it settles into flat sheets. Rollers squeeze out the excess water. The material is kiln dried for 8 to 10 hours and then cut to size. Orion is presently more expensive than other common acoustical materials, but its high NRC (up to 1.00) makes it an attractive option.

Acoustical Characteristics

Fire Resistance
Fire resistance measures how well a structure keeps fire from spreading from one part of a building to another, while maintaining structural integrity. In the past, material was classed A, B, C, or D. Currently, material is either Class A (nonfire-rated), or fire rated into 1, 2, or 3 hour classes. Fire-rated material has ceramic in it to slow its burning. Class A material may be used only in residential construction.

Fire-resistance ratings are frequently misunderstood by architects and builders alike. They often assume that by using 1-hour panels, they have a 1-hour ceiling. But classifications are established for an entire system and not just one component in the design. For instance, while 3-hour material will be slower-burning than 1-hour material, it will still burn through in less than 3 hours. The larger design of which it’s a part, however, will theoretically keep a fire from spreading for 3 hours. The fire-resistance capabilities of a system are tested according to Underwriters Laboratories’ specifications. If, during a fire test, a panel stays in its grid from 60-119 minutes, it’s considered 1-hour rated. From 120-179 minutes, it’s 2 hour. And from 180-223 minutes, it’s considered 3 hour.

Surface Burning Characteristics
Surface burning characteristics are measured by observing how quickly flames spread and how much smoke develops. These factors are then expressed in a single number. The number is relative to how red oak burns (100) and inorganic reinforced cement board burns (0). Acoustical material commonly falls into the 0-25 range.

Light Reflection
Material is classified into light reflection (LR) grades, with 1.0 reflecting the most light. A grade of LR 1 means 75 to 100 percent of the light is reflected back; LR 2 is 70 to 74 percent reflection; LR 3 is 65 to 69 percent; LR 4 is 60 to 64 percent. Under 60 percent is ungraded. The vast majority of acoustical material falls into the first two grades, with LR 1 being the most common.

In addition to these federal ratings, you have to consider other characteristics for acoustical material. You’ll weigh the ease of installation and maintenance, resistance to moisture, insulating properties, and cost as well.

Installing Acoustical Ceiling Tiles

There are two common ways to install acoustical ceiling tiles: directly to a smooth backing or attached to furring strips (Figure 1), or suspended in a metal grid (Figure 2). For either method, schedule ahead so the materials are delivered at least 24 hours before installation. Store them in the location they’ll be used. That way, any shrinking or swelling due to temperature or humidity will happen before you install it.

Although it’s not particularly difficult to hang a suspended ceiling, you can hire a drywall sub if you don’t want to do it yourself.

Your finished ceiling will look better if the border tiles are the same width and none of them are less than half a tile wide. For instance, if you’re using 12-inch tiles, you wouldn’t want to have a row of full tiles on one end and a row of 4-inch tiles on the opposite end. For better balance, plan a row of 8-inch tiles on each end (12" + 4" ÷ 2 = 8"). To make sure this happens, you’ll need to do a little simple preplanning. First measure the length and width of the room. Then snap a chalk line the length, width, and both diagonals of the room to find the center point. Finally, use Figure 3 to position the ceiling tile.

Cut the tile, face up, with a utility knife and a straightedge. Or score the face with a utility knife, and then follow with a handsaw or power saw with the face side still up.

Installing Ceiling Tiles

Ceiling tiles come in a variety of sizes. The 12- × 12-inch square tiles are the most common, but 12- × 24-inch tiles are also frequently used. Figure 4 shows a tongue-and-groove ceiling tile.

If the ceiling is level and in good shape, you can glue the tiles directly to the surface. But first allow new concrete to cure at least six months and new plaster to cure at least a month. Don’t glue tile directly to concrete unless you’ve insulated and vented properly and placed a vapor barrier to avoid temperature and humidity differences. (See Insulation.) Prime the surface of new concrete, and clean all dust from the surfaces where you’ll apply adhesive.

If the ceiling is in poor shape, install 1 × 3 furring strips 12 inches on center at right angles to the ceiling joists. Work from the center of the room out, shimming the furring strips wherever needed to make a level surface.

Furring Strip Method

  1. Snap a chalk line for each border. Make sure the chalk line is parallel to the center line, not the wall. Cut corner tile to size, cutting off the two tongue sides. Cut the tongue side off of all border tiles for the first horizontal and vertical rows, adjusting for any unevenness in the walls. See Figure 5.
  2. Place the first tile in the corner, flange side out. Nail the flush sides of the tile at the corner and walls. Continue with the border tiles, nailing the side against the wall and stapling the flanges to the furring strips. Putty the nail holes when the tiles are all in place.
  3. Build out from the corner, slipping the tongue into the border tiles’ grooves. Staple the flanges to the furring strips. For 12 × 12-inch tiles, use three staples to a side. Use five staples to a side for 12 × 24-inch tiles. Work across the room diagonally. See Figure 6.

Tools and Materials
  • Utility knife
  • Level or straightedge
  • Chalk line
  • Talcum powder or corn starch (use on your hands before handling tile to keep from smudging it)
  • Staple gun with 9/16 inch staples or
  • Hammer and 4d nails or
  • Tile adhesive, brush, and putty knife; mineral spirits
  • Putty
  • Goggles
  • Dust mask
  • Protective clothing

Solid Backing Method

  1. Follow steps just described for layout, cutting, and placement of tile.
  2. Brush a light coat of glue on the back of the tile. Dab a walnutsize ball of glue on each corner about 2 inches in. (For 12 x 24- inch tiles, place eight balls of glue.) Press the tile firmly in place, sliding it into the adjacent tongue and groove, or kerf. Then clean up the adhesive with mineral spirits.
  3. If the wall is solid drywall in good condition, you can staple the tiles directly to it in the pattern described.

Estimating Acoustical Ceiling Tiles
Estimate how many tiles you’ll need by calculating the square footage of the ceiling (length times width). For 12- × 12-inch tiles, the square footage is the same as the number of tiles you need. If you’re using 12- × 24-inch tiles, divide the square footage by 2.

A two-person crew installing 12- × 12-inch tongue-and-groove ceiling tile with staples should be able to install about 58 tiles an hour. This will, of course, vary with the layout of the room. You can set more tiles per hour in a large open room, and substantially fewer per hour in small or cut-up rooms. If you use furring strips, a carpenter and a laborer should be able to install around 40 square feet of 1 × 2s at 12 inches on center per hour.

Repairing Ceiling Tiles

  1. Use a utility knife to cut out damaged tile, scraping out stubborn pieces and adhesive with a putty knife. Clean out the grooves.
  2. Cut a new tile to fit, removing its tongues and flanges. Glue or nail it in place.

Installing a Suspended Ceiling

When a ceiling needs to be lowered or you need easy access to wiring, ductwork and pipes, a suspended ceiling is a better choice than ceiling tile. The most common sizes used in suspended ceilings are 24 × 24 inches and 24 x 48 inches. The tiles are laid in a metal grid that’s suspended from the ceiling. Allow at least 2 to 3 inches between the ceiling or joists and the new ceiling. It will be difficult to maneuver tiles into place if there’s less space than that. Look at Figure 7

Don’t hang light fixtures or other ceiling apparatus from the metal grid unless you’re sure the system can support their weight. It’s better to suspend the fixtures directly from the ceiling.

By far the most difficult part of hanging a suspended ceiling is getting it level. If the ceiling isn’t perfectly flat, the tiles will rock or tip or appear out of line. Professional ceiling installers use laser levels to do the job right. For someone who only does an occasional ceiling, sighting in with a transit will work. If you don’t have a transit, check repeatedly with your level and tape measure while hanging the wall angles and the main tees. See Figure 8. For small areas, you can get by with leveling with a builder’s level (Figure 9).

Estimate the number of panels by finding the square footage of the ceiling, then dividing by 4 (for 2- × 2-foot panels) or 8 (for 2- × 4- foot panels). Or sketch the ceiling on paper and count the number of panels.

Installation Guidelines

  1. Snap a chalk line around the room at the height where the new ceiling should go. Fasten the wall angle at this line. Cut your pieces carefully to make sure every end is fastened to a stud. Use nails, screws, or staples to attach the pieces to the studs. Use concrete nails to attach pieces to masonry. Miter outside corners; butt inside ones.
  2. Snap a chalk line on the ceiling or ceiling joist to mark the center main tee. Hammer in 6d nails above the wall angles on both sides of the room where cross tees go. Tightly stretch the string across the room and tie it to the nails.
  3. Cut suspension wires for the main tees. Attach screw eyes or hooks and nails to the ceiling joists at the chalk line every 4 feet where the cross tees will run. Slots in the main tee for the cross tees must line up with the cross strings.
  4. Insert suspension wires through the screw eyes, twisting excess wire around itself. Insert the other end through the main tee and secure the loose wire by twisting it around itself. Make sure the tee is level. If the length of the room is more than 12 feet, splice two main tees together with a splice plate. Wire both sides of the splice. See Figure 10.
  5. When main tees are in place, connect in the cross tees (Figure 11). Check again to make sure the entire system is level. Set in the panels by angling them up through the space, straightening the panel, and laying it in place.

Materials and Equipment
  • Wall angle: L-shaped piece attached to the wall around the perimeter of the room; available in 10- or 12-foot lengths; nailed, screwed or stapled to the wall (see sidebar)
  • Main tee: T-shaped piece for spanning the length of the room; placed at right angles to the joists; available in 8- or 12-foot sections; hung from the ceiling with screw eyes and wire
  • Cross tee: T-shaped piece for spanning the width of the room, placed parallel with the joists; available in 2- or 4-foot sections; connects into the main tees by tabs and slots
  • Splice plate: Straight piece with slots, used to connect main tees
  • Screw eyes or hook and nail: Attached to the ceiling to hold wire; allow one for every 4 feet of main tee
  • Wire: 18-gauge hanger wire for hanging the main tees; cut at least 4 inches longer than the distance between the old and new ceilings
  • Tin snips: To cut steel tees and angles or
  • Hacksaw: To cut aluminum
  • Chalk line
  • Transit and/or level
  • Fasteners (staples, nails, or screws) with appropriate fastening equipment
  • 6d nails
  • Hammer
  • String
  • Utility knife and/or saw (to cut panels)

Attaching Wall Angle to Drywall

When backing isn’t convenient, here’s a slick way to attach the wall angle to drywall. But remember that it’s only as strong as the drywall and the staple. You can’t use this technique structurally, but it will work to attach a wall angle to support acoustic tile.Use a heavy gauge fence staple and follow these steps:

  1. With the metal angle molding in place, strike the staple, centering on only one of the points. For this technique to work,make sure only one of the points pierces the metal.
  2. Strike the outer corner of the staple to continue to drive it sideways through the metal and the drywall. Carefully direct the force of the hammer on the staple, so you’re driving only one point into the metal.
  3. When the staple is tight, it will secure the metal anchor by pinching it to the drywall.

Estimating a Suspended Ceiling
Estimate how many tiles you’ll need by calculating the square footage of the ceiling (length times width). If you’re using 12 × 24-inch tiles, divide the square footage by 2.

A two-person crew can usually install about 100 square feet of standard 2 × 4-foot grid with wires per hour. Be sure to allow additional time for cut-up or small rooms.

Placing the ceiling tile in the grid is a simple drop-in process except for borders, corners, lighting, columns and other nuisances. For a simple drop-in ceiling using an average price nonrated tile, the two person crew should be able to install around 250 square feet, or 32 tiles per hour. Tile prices vary depending on cut, style, texture and fire rating.

Manhours to Install Acoustical Ceiling, per SF

Type Manhours Suggested

Crew Ceiling tiles, 12" × 12"
glued or stapled
.035 1 carpenter

Suspended ceilings:
Grid system, 2' × 2'
.017 1 carpenter
Grid system, 2' × 4' .015 1 carpenter
Add for under 400 SF job .007 1 carpenter
Ceiling tiles, deep textured,
3/4" reveal edge
.010 1 carpenter
Ceiling tiles, random pinhole
or fissured, 5/8" square edge
.004 1 carpenter


For information on related topics, see:

Acoustics, page 21
Asbestos, page 31
Insulation, page 395

Step-by-step installation instructions for just about any residential construction, remodeling or repair task you're likely to face. Written in clear, everyday language, this practical reference covers most major installations, alphabetically, from Acoustic Tile to Wood Flooring. Includes hundreds of diagrams and illustrations that show how to build, install, or remodel each part of the job, as well as handy materials, equipment, and tools lists to help you plan your projects.

  • Acoustic tile, Acoustics, Adhesives, Asbestos, Asphalt paving
  • Bathroom fixtures, Brick masonry
  • Cabinetry, Carpet, Ceramic tile, Concrete, Concrete block, Concrete reinforcing, Countertops
  • Doors, Drywall
  • Electrical installation
  • Financing, Fireplaces & chimneys, Floor framing, Flooring, Framing materials & planning
  • Glass block
  • Heating & air conditioning
  • Insulation, Insurance
  • Painting, Paneling, Paving, Plaster, Plumbing, Porches & decks
  • Radon & other pollutants, Resilient flooring, Roof framing, Roofing
  • Siding, Stone masonry, Stucco
  • Trim
  • Ventilation
  • Wall framing, Wallpaper, Windows & skylights, Wood flooring

Provides useful tips and tricks-of-the-trade that experienced builders and remodelers have learned over time, as well as timesaving tools and templates you can make yourself. There's also a manhours table for each work item covered so you know how long a job should normally take. With these, you can estimate and bid with confidence, monitor your crews and schedule your workload.
Filled with charts and tables to give you instant answers to your questions on such topics as what adhesive to use on what type of work, what cleaning methods work for which stains on masonry, the correct cement and grout for each type of tile, what insulation to use where, the correct drywall choices and fastening requirements, what paint works where, selecting and troubleshooting wood flooring, shingle coverage, roof systems, and many more.

Free CD-ROM: Inside the back cover is a CD with all the material in the book, including the figures and tables, with search features that will take you instantly to the topic you need. Print the instructions for any job, capture the illustrations to include on a bid you're submitting, or cut and paste into an e-mail to describe the installation process to your crew.

The Authors: Stephen and Janelle Diller both grew up in construction families. Stephen is a fourth generation contractor, and Janelle is a communication and project manager for a large hi-tech firm. Together, they have grown their small remodeling company into a thriving construction company, specializing in light commercial projects. As they watched other construction companies come and go, they realized they had a depth of knowledge in their trade that others lacked. Their background and experience in construction, along with Janelle's writing and teaching skills, led to the creation of this encyclopedia. It's a compilation of years of notes, detailed instructions, drawings and diagrams used to train others in their field. Now it's available in book form to share with their fellow builders and those just starting out in the trades, as well as those outside the construction industry who want to know about how it all goes together.